Dominique Ansel Bakery Opens
The Cronut, and its entourage of creative culinary cronies, has finally landed in London
Three years ago, the misleadingly unappetising portmanteau “cronut” became a trending topic on Twitter overnight. A small bakery in Manhattan was selling the hybrid doughnut-croissant and it seemed like all of New York would do anything to get their hands on one, forming all-night queues that shocked the world. The product was a great demonstration of the kind of response that could be garnered from the marriage between social media and food. In fact, it is the most virally talked-about dessert item in history, brags now celebrity Chef Dominique Ansel’s website, before it earnestly warns you to avoid imitations. For months after its New York reveal, the Cronut® (yes with the little R) was being bought by scalpers who would then go on to sell the pastry later that day for up to $100, a price increase of 2,000%, according to NPR.
Tonight, the first Cronuts hit the mouths of Londoners, and, after eager chewing, that conversation has begun again.
Ansel and his team are clearly confident the pastry will draw curious customers to its spacious Belgravia location, and they limit its production (as they do in their NYC and Tokyo branches to 350 a day) and the amount each customer may purchase (2) to keep it exclusive.
At tonight’s soft opening, the main event wasn’t even available to try unless you were lucky enough to find one of fifty golden tickets well hidden around the room. Apparently embarrassed to see a girl desperately plunging her hands between the leather cushions of the bakery’s sleek seating area (and displacing lounging guests), Simon, Ansel’s business partner, discreetly snuck one of the coveted Cronuts out to me, its halo of caramel cleaved in quarters to reveal delicate, cream-filled layers. This month’s flavour is salted butterscotch and cocao nib, which are a bit powerful for the more subtle dough. That said, it’s a polarising piece of pastry. Some attendees were repeat offenders, having waited in line at the New York branch, insisting proudly they were happy to do the same here. The Cronut's flavour changes every month without repeating, so there will always be a new version to sample.
So, is it worthy of the hype? In a Cronutshell… not really. Yes, it’s flaky, flavoursome, different, but it lacks the wow factor required to propel it past gimmickry.
However, there are so many better reasons to visit Dominique Ansel’s, not least of which to merely lean against the smooth marble bar and marvel and the rainbow of mini meringues and macarons, or watch the team at work in the open kitchen. Open from 8-8, the menu is extensive, considered, and caters to every hankering. Really, to call it a mere bakery is an understatement. Other treats include the “DKA” (a simple and delicious caramelised croissant which is the company’s best seller) the “Cookie Shot” (a shot glass made of chewy chocolate chip cookie dough then filled with cool vanilla milk), and a Korean-inspired Eton Mess. Follow with one Ansel’s savoury items, like the Welsh Rarebit croissant, filled with cheddar béchamel, wholegrain mustard and a touch of anchovy or the spicy chorizo croissant (both London-only items). The oxtail consommé with glass noodles and root veggies is tasty, and the kedgeree croquette (a smoked haddock-wrapped breaded quail’s egg with homemade mayonnaise) is utterly perfect.
But what truly takes the, er, cake is Ansel’s signature Frozen S’more - a generous cube of Tahitian vanilla ice cream encircled in salty chocolate feuilletine, and smothered in fresh honey marshmallow, skewered and seared to smoky perfection by a torch right before it’s handed to you. Unspeakably good.
Test out the Cronut for yourself beginning Friday 30th September at the dazzling new Dominique Ansel Bakery Belgravia.
