E Pellicci
An enduring eatery in the East
"Look kids! Look at the size of these chips!" Nevio Junior waves a mountain of crispy, golden slabs of potato under our noses on his expedition to an outside table.
These spuds are the veritable currency of this family business. The parade of pride continues with each plate exiting the kitchen, from gargantuan fry-ups, mounds of museli, to tennis balls of ice cream sat atop towers of pancakes (an impressive order for 9am).
In Bethnal Green's 'E Pellicci', nothing is done by half measures. Least of all the atmosphere. This gem, owned and run by the same Italian family for over a century, is well documented by local word of mouth, and only recently has its legend been captured online. The Pelliccis and their beloved East London 'caff' endured and flourished during wartime, though more impressively through the arrival of chain coffee giants which have since engulfed other businesses of similar character.
Distinctive for its wooden-panelled Art Deco design which is unchanged since the 50s, the cafe is a Grade II listed building as marked by English Heritage in 2005. This marks the café as a rarity which deserves preservation, harking back to a long-lost culture of fad free, unpretentious food, and service which sees you as a friend rather than a credit card. Personality bursts out from each panel and plate on the premises.
Ashamedly, I'd approached the establishment that morning with a modern skepticism. Staying with a friend in Bethnal Green, I'd thrust my breakfast ideas upon him that morning with a hunger for hipster health food. Insisting that he knew better and requesting my trust, we waltzed through the door of E Pellicci.
"Richard! Great to see you. Who's your girl?"
Nevio Junior, son of owner Nevio 'Senior' Pellicci, is jokingly interrogatory and learns enough about me in a brief chat to introduce me to two newfound friends - a family from Calgary, Canada (the city I'd called my home for a year) who were tucking into a lavishly layered lasagne a few tables away.
My vegetarian fry-up silenced both my rumbling stomach and mental sirens which had began to wail as cast my eyes upon a gluten and meat infused menu. Leaving the Pelliccis with a 'thanks for having me' and a promise to return, I felt distinctly as if I'd been adopted into their extended family of customers which includes the likes of Robbie Williams and the Gallagher brothers.
I left the restaurant with newfound friends, full to the brim, and with a re-imagined quest to seek out the most authentic food establishments London has to offer.
That's an impressive brunch order.
